One cosy meal at Forest Avenue on a chilly Thursday night and we're already hooked on Dublin 4's sweetest new neighbourhood dining room. Run by husband and wife Sandy and John Wyer, the Sussex Terrace restaurant is named after the street where Sandy grew up in Queens, New York City. But beyond the namesake, the buzzy vibe and busy open kitchen, the restaurant isn't quite what you think of when you imagine the Big Apple.
Instead, the one-room space is minimal, with white walls and rustic wood tables and counters. The only accessories are a few simple stag's heads and deer antler light fixtures, a restrained style or decor that adds to Forest Avenue's neighbourhood dining room vibe.
On a busy Thursday night, both owners are hard at work alongside the staff - John in the kitchen and Sandy moving between tables and counters, serving and chatting with diners. The menu changes often, but always relies on the artful pairing of seasonal ingredients. The Forest Avenue dinner menu always includes a five-course tasting menu for €48 and on Wednesday and Thursday evenings you can try a Residents Menu with two or three set options, startig at a reasonable €27.
Yeasty potato bread with aubergine spread, filo cups with airy whipped goat's cheese and a bite of pork terrine were brought to our table to nibble on before our meal arrived. For dinner, I selected a starter and main from the Residents Menu and was perfectly satisfied by the range of flavours. A salad composed of chicory, blue cheese, pears and walnuts had me pleasantly surprised with every bite. The main course of buttery confit duck leg, garlicky kale (which even this kale sceptic enjoyed!), and carrot with golden raisins was a winning juxtaposition of savoury and sweet.
Securnig a reservation for our party of six on a weeknight took a few week's wait, but tables are more readily available for those willing to be seated later in the evening. Forest Avenue offers a set lunch and weekend brunch menu for daytime dining, too. All in all, a scrumptious welcome addition to our dining options on Dublin's southside.
Forest Avenue, Sussex Terrace, Dublin 4. 01 667 8337.
